










The Depot
1208 38th Place, Seaview, Wash.(360) 642-7880
The Columbia-Pacific region’s top restaurants could hold their own anywhere, and The Depot, so-called because it’s housed in a former railway station, is no exception to this dictum. What was already a fine dining venue got even better when Michael Lalewicz, a Western Culinary Institute grad, and wife Nancy Gorshe, a health professional, assumed ownership in early 2003. They spruced up the interior, improved the wine list, stabilized the menu and eliminated the fussiness, yet maintained The Depot’s fun quotient, always a high point.Internationally oriented, upscale bistro fare is how Lalewicz characterizes his cooking, but the food here defies categorization. Just call it reliable and rock-solid, ’cause Lalewicz and sous chef Cleveland Graham resist outrageous fusion in favor of proven preparations. They’re focused on purveying lively, unpretentious fare such as fried Willapa oysters, Clam Tide Railroad Chowder and signature house salad greens gussied up with candied walnuts, chopped pears and blue cheese. Entrees run the gamut from coconut prawns and gorgonzola gnocchi to tandoori chicken and pistachio-crusted lamb chops. Wednesday Burger Nights are the region’s foremost Bacchanalian feasts, and desserts are always a pleasantly sweet surprise. $$
Reprinted from The Daily Astorian, Coast Weekend Mouth of the Columbia... Richard Fencsak